2011年12月20日

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo

Here’s another gem hidden away in the central Takamatsu: Japanese restaurant Tokiwa Saryo.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Tokiwa Saryo Restaurant

Located just one street south of the Tokiwa-gai arcade, this restaurant is closely connected to the shopping district’s history. It was built in the early 1950s by Jukichi Mizobuchi, a prominent local producer involved in theater, movies and events. Mizobuchi had already built a theater nearby, stimulating the development of a shopping arcade in this area.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Entrance

Tokiwa Saryo started out as a very posh inn. The design was so elaborate that construction took 4 years to complete. The distinctive golden fish and blue tiles that topped the castle-like structure could be seen all the way from Takamatsu Station when it was first built and it numbered among its clientele many famous people from showbiz, commerce and politics.

Due to modern fire regulations, the top floors are no longer used as a hotel, but the bottom two floors have been converted into a spectacular restaurant replete with inner courtyard garden and pond.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Dining area viewed from the courtyard.

The restaurant serves Japanese style box lunches with a little bit of everything, or tempura and sashimi set lunches. Prices are very reasonable ranging from a little over 1,000 to 3,000 yen for lunch. The food is delicious but even if it were ordinary, I think the price is still worth it just for the décor.

After lunch, you can ask for permission to take a stroll through the courtyard and beyond.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Courtyard

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Alcove

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
The garden

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
The bridge

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Looking back towards the dining area

The most stunning part of this restaurant, however, is the hall down a corridor to the left after crossing the little red bridge. Built in imitation of the drawing room of Nijo Castle in Kyoto, the walls and ceiling of the hall are covered with lacquer works by Akashi Bokkei, a local lacquer craftsman of the time.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Wall mural – pine tree

Bokkei’s wall mural motif consists of pine, bamboo and plum blossoms, which are symbols of celebration and good fortune in Japan.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Plum blossoms

Butterflies weave among the pine and plum trees, one for each year of Mizobuchi’s life. He passed away before the work was completed.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Bamboo

The cabinet in the above photo was custom made to house what was, at the time, a very modern stereo and speaker complete with LP records.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Ceiling

If you do find this room, don’t forget to look up. The ceiling panels are also elaborate lacquer work and mimic those found in castles and temples.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Ceiling panel close up

And last but not least are the koi (carp), another auspicious symbol, made by yet another skilled local artist of that period, Hidari Kohkyo.

‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Koi

If you are with a large group, you can reserve this room for lunch or dinner. If you are not with a large group but want to see the room, ask for permission at the front desk. They will usually let you wander in and take pictures, as long as you are quiet and respectful (i.e. keep out of the way of restaurant staff and guests).

Directions: From the west side of Kotoden Kawaramachi Station head down the covered shopping arcade called Tokiwa-gai. Turn left at a side street with a green grocer’s on the near corner and a lantern high up on the wall on the far side. (See the photo below.) The lantern says “Tokiwa Saryo” on it in Japanese.

写真15‘Art-full’ Dining Tokiwa Saryo
Turn left at this corner.

Tokiwa Saryo is at the corner of the next street on the right. There’s also a map (in Japanese) on the website below.
Times: Lunch 11:00 to 15:00
Dinner: 17:00 to 22:00 (prices are higher for dinner)
Tel: 087-861-5577
Website: http://www.trs1515.com/~saryou/inquiry/top.html

For a little more information in English on prices, etc., see:
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/takamatsu/D50552.html


My Profile
Cathy Hirano キャシー ヒラノ
I've lived in Japan since 1978. After graduating from a Japanese university with a BA in cultural anthropology in 1983, I worked as a translator in a Japanese consulting engineering firm in Tokyo for several years. My Japanese husband and I moved to Takamatsu in 1987 to raise our two children in a slower-paced environment away from the big city pressures. We've never regretted it. I work as a freelance translator and interpreter and am involved in a lot of community work, including volunteering for Second Hand, a local NGO that supports educational and vocational training initiatives in Cambodia, and for the Takamatsu International Association. I love living in Takamatsu.
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