By Cathy Hirano

As mentioned in an earlier article, Takamatsu has a surprising number of valuable architectural works. This is in part due to the influence of Masahiro Kaneko, governor of Kagawa from 1950-1974. He established a design office (now defunct) within the prefectural government to promote good design and encouraged top architects, artists and artisans to work here.

I recently joined a tour of some of these architectural treasures in downtown Takamatsu led by a self-proclaimed “architectural detective”, who also happens to be my husband. He and other local architects are trying to protect outstanding examples of local architecture from the mid-19th century to the present by raising public awareness of their value. Our tour focused on the postwar modernist period. As space is limited, I include just a sample.


Scene from a previous tour

One intriguing example is the Kagawa Prefectural Culture Hall, located a block north of the Kagawa prefectural office (see previous article).



Built in 1965, it was designed by Hiroshi Oe (1913-1989), a classmate of architect Kenzo Tange. Like Tange, from the 1960s Oe began to combine traditional Japanese architecture with Western elements but whereas Tange expressed Japanese elements in concrete, Oe used traditional materials and design components as independent pieces within a concrete shell. The Culture Hall is representative of this style.





The copper-covered roof is reminiscent of the heavy thatched roofs of traditional farmhouses



and the wooden latticing and white-washed wall recall those used in traditional dwellings.



The unusually low wooden railings on the second floor joined the two levels.



For safety reasons, a glass extension was added many years later to make it higher.



The Culture Hall is still used for exhibits, especially of traditional arts and ikebana, making it well worth a visit.

Another building with a story was Nakamuraya, a high-end interior store on the south side of the street just across from the Takamatsu Art Museum.



Built in 1974, it was inspired by the works of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926), a fact reflected in the curved mosaic roof. The round tiles on the overhang and the wall tiles were custom-made. The store specializes in top designer items and is a great place to browse.



Our tour ended at the far north end of the central shopping mall, where we looked at Mitsukoshi Department Store built in 1968.



I had never realized that the façade is designed to symbolize the shaft and feathers of an arrow, a tribute to Nasu no Yoichi, a 12th century warrior whose archery skills were immortalized in the Tale of the Heike.



So, if you happen to be walking around downtown Takamatsu, keep a lookout for these and other little-known architectural treasures.
  

Despite its small size, Takamatsu has works by some of Japan’s most renowned architects. These include Tange Kenzo (1913-2005), acclaimed as one of the most significant architects of the 20th century. The seat of the prefectural government located in downtown Takamatsu is considered a signature work.



Tange was influenced by Le Corbusier (1887-1965) and the international style of architecture, which promoted a simplification of form, rejection of ornamentation and the use of glass, steel and concrete. In the prefectural office building, however, Tange took this one step further to develop his own modern architectural style that blended Western and Japanese aesthetics.

The railings in both height and design evoke the railings on Japanese temples and shrines.



Although built of concrete, the structure mimics elements of traditional Japanese wooden architecture, such as the latticed effect in the photo below.



Again, though built of concrete, the style suggests wooden post-and-beam construction and the building itself resembles a pagoda. The open space and glass paneling give transparency, blurring the distinction between inside and out.



Tange also created a traditional yet modern Japanese garden. As a result, the lobby feels like a tranquil oasis, despite being located in the hub of bureaucracy.



The piloti (columns) create a communal space in front of the entrance



and frame the view of the street. The photo below reminds me of the raised passageways that join buildings in Japanese temples and shrines.



Tange often worked with outstanding artists and artisans. In this case, Genichiro Inokuma (1902-1993), a well-known contemporary artist and Kagawa native, was instrumental in introducing Tange to this project and his own work is featured prominently as 4 wall murals surrounding the central core of the building.



Using the motifs of the sun and the moon, the murals represent the 4 characters for the principles of tea ceremony, Wa, Kei, Sei, Jaku (harmony, respect, purity, tranquility).



Tange also employed, Isamu Kenmochi (1912-1971), a leading figure in Japanese industrial design, to create furniture specifically for this space.


(Looking through Kenmochi’s shelves.)

Tange, himself, designed the round chairs, which are made of ceramic.



This building, along with the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, is one of the finest examples of Tange’s work during this period. It was selected by DO-CO-MO-MO, an international organization for conservation headquartered in Spain, as one of the 20 best works of the modern movement in Japan. As such, I hope that the local appreciate its historic value and continue to treat it with respect.