2012年11月29日
Maple Leaf Hunting
Fall is a beautiful season in Takamatsu. The weather is usually perfect (barring the occasional typhoon) and the colors of the changing leaves against the dark evergreens can be enjoyed for much longer than in my native Canada.
The Japanese come out en masse to enjoy them, flocking to much publicized viewing spots. The focus appears to be on momiji, or Japanese maple, in particular. In fact, the characters for the word “momiji” are also used for the word koyo, meaning “scarlet autumn leaves”. The Japanese term for the popular pastime of viewing autumn leaves is momiji-gari, which literally means “maple-leaf hunting”.
I dropped into Ritsurin Garden to "hunt" maple leaves there. The Garden is open at night for 2 weeks during the height of the season (Nov. 23 to Dec. 2 in 2012) with evening concerts and food stalls, but not being an accomplished photographer, I opted to go in mid-day, when nature would compensate for my lack of skill.
I was not alone. In addition to photographers, both amateur and professional,
I bumped into several bird watchers as well.
One bird photographer could imitate a variety of bird calls. He drew several different species close enough to capture on camera – on his camera, I should say. Here he is calling a bush warbler. A flock of them came, but I only managed to photograph twigs.
References to maple leaf viewing can be found in Japan’s oldest collection of poetry, the Manyoshu, which dates back to the 8th century. At that time, it was mainly a form of entertainment for the aristocracy but by the 17th century, viewing the autumn colors had become more widespread.
The contemporary form of leaf viewing, in which people make special excursions to famous spots, is more recent, dating back to the late 19th century. I am just happy that they still do it. What a wonderful way to spend a fall day! .
Ritsurin Garden:
Access: Located 2 km south of JR Takamatsu Station. Take the JR line from Takamatsu Station to Ritsurin-koen Kitaguchi Station (5 min., JPY200, 2 trains/hour). It’s a 5-minute walk from the station to the garden’s north gate. You will do a lot of walking in the park so unless you have a lot of time and like walking, I suggest taking the train or a taxi.
Admission: JPY 400 (JPY 170 for children). Free every March 16, as well as for Kagawa residents.
Hours: Open sunrise to sunset, so the hours change each month. Opens at 7:00 AM at the latest and closes by 5:00 PM at the earliest.
The Japanese come out en masse to enjoy them, flocking to much publicized viewing spots. The focus appears to be on momiji, or Japanese maple, in particular. In fact, the characters for the word “momiji” are also used for the word koyo, meaning “scarlet autumn leaves”. The Japanese term for the popular pastime of viewing autumn leaves is momiji-gari, which literally means “maple-leaf hunting”.
I dropped into Ritsurin Garden to "hunt" maple leaves there. The Garden is open at night for 2 weeks during the height of the season (Nov. 23 to Dec. 2 in 2012) with evening concerts and food stalls, but not being an accomplished photographer, I opted to go in mid-day, when nature would compensate for my lack of skill.
I was not alone. In addition to photographers, both amateur and professional,
I bumped into several bird watchers as well.
One bird photographer could imitate a variety of bird calls. He drew several different species close enough to capture on camera – on his camera, I should say. Here he is calling a bush warbler. A flock of them came, but I only managed to photograph twigs.
References to maple leaf viewing can be found in Japan’s oldest collection of poetry, the Manyoshu, which dates back to the 8th century. At that time, it was mainly a form of entertainment for the aristocracy but by the 17th century, viewing the autumn colors had become more widespread.
The contemporary form of leaf viewing, in which people make special excursions to famous spots, is more recent, dating back to the late 19th century. I am just happy that they still do it. What a wonderful way to spend a fall day! .
Ritsurin Garden:
Access: Located 2 km south of JR Takamatsu Station. Take the JR line from Takamatsu Station to Ritsurin-koen Kitaguchi Station (5 min., JPY200, 2 trains/hour). It’s a 5-minute walk from the station to the garden’s north gate. You will do a lot of walking in the park so unless you have a lot of time and like walking, I suggest taking the train or a taxi.
Admission: JPY 400 (JPY 170 for children). Free every March 16, as well as for Kagawa residents.
Hours: Open sunrise to sunset, so the hours change each month. Opens at 7:00 AM at the latest and closes by 5:00 PM at the earliest.
Posted by cathy at
20:31
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2012年11月28日
Honenji Continued
Having guided you to paradise (http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e601507.html ), I am back, as promised, with more on Honenji Temple. Unlike temples in Kyoto, this one never seems to be overrun with tourists, perhaps because it is supported quite well by its congregation and the surrounding community.
Hondo (main hall)
The temple is named after Buddhist priest Honen (1133-1212), founder of the Jodo (Pure Land) sect. Honen taught that everyone could attain paradise simply by reciting the Buddha’s name, a concept that threatened the status and power of contemporary Buddhist leaders. He was exiled to various places, one of which was Kagawa. Arriving in 1207 at the age of 75, he established a temple near Manno. Four and a half centuries later, in 1668, the first lord of the Takamatsu domain, a great admirer of Honen, had the temple moved to its current location and designated it as his clan temple. Although it was about 10 kilometers from his residence, locating temples on the outskirts of town like this was a common practice for Japan's rulers. Temple complexes could double as fortresses in the event of an attack, a precaution that reflected centuries of conflict.
Looking at the Sanbutsu-do (3-Buddha Hall)
Within the Honenji temple complex, Sanbutsu-do (3-Buddha Hall) is particularly special. (Please note that visitors are not allowed to take photos inside the buildings. The photos here are shared with special permission from the head priest.)
Like the path to paradise, the Sanbutsu-do is designed to be an experience. One enters humbly via an outer corridor in the side of the building.
Inside is a passageway dimly lit by ceiling lanterns
and watched over by white plaster Buddha figures made from the crushed bones that remain after cremation.
Beyond this lies an even darker passage lined with startlingly life-size wooden statues of the successive priests who headed the temple.
Only after braving the stern gaze of these men does one reach the final destination: a stunning 3-dimensional floor-to-ceiling reproduction of the Buddha’s ascension.
While paintings of this scene are common in temples, nowhere else in Japan has this scene been so lavishly reproduced in sculpture. In the center lies a massive carved statue of the Buddha around which are gathered his grieving disciples and representatives from all the worlds of being. Even after 3 centuries, this panorama still inspires awe.
This post would be incomplete without mentioning the pagoda. The first lord envisioned a pagoda as part of the overall plan but it was never constructed. Three centuries later, with the support of many believers and visitors, the lord’s plan was finally realized.
Completed in 2011, the pagoda’s structure follows a traditional design. A single cedar column hangs from the roof of the pagoda without touching any other parts and acts as a stabilizing force. This earthquake-resistant dynamic was recently utilized in the design of Tokyo’s Sky Tree.
Temple Admission: Admission is required only for viewing the Hondo (main hall) and Sanbutsu-do. Adults 350 yen, junior/senior high school students 300 yen, children free
Access
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira line from Takamatsu Chikko station (near Takamatsu JR station) to Busshozan station (620 yen round-trip, 3 trains/hour; about 18 min. ride). Turn left (east) when you exit Busshozan station. Walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. Follow the road until it comes to a hill. Bear right and go around the hill until you come to a big pond. Turn right and follow the road along the pond to the temple entrance. (About 15 min. walk from the station.)
Hondo (main hall)
The temple is named after Buddhist priest Honen (1133-1212), founder of the Jodo (Pure Land) sect. Honen taught that everyone could attain paradise simply by reciting the Buddha’s name, a concept that threatened the status and power of contemporary Buddhist leaders. He was exiled to various places, one of which was Kagawa. Arriving in 1207 at the age of 75, he established a temple near Manno. Four and a half centuries later, in 1668, the first lord of the Takamatsu domain, a great admirer of Honen, had the temple moved to its current location and designated it as his clan temple. Although it was about 10 kilometers from his residence, locating temples on the outskirts of town like this was a common practice for Japan's rulers. Temple complexes could double as fortresses in the event of an attack, a precaution that reflected centuries of conflict.
Looking at the Sanbutsu-do (3-Buddha Hall)
Within the Honenji temple complex, Sanbutsu-do (3-Buddha Hall) is particularly special. (Please note that visitors are not allowed to take photos inside the buildings. The photos here are shared with special permission from the head priest.)
Like the path to paradise, the Sanbutsu-do is designed to be an experience. One enters humbly via an outer corridor in the side of the building.
Inside is a passageway dimly lit by ceiling lanterns
and watched over by white plaster Buddha figures made from the crushed bones that remain after cremation.
Beyond this lies an even darker passage lined with startlingly life-size wooden statues of the successive priests who headed the temple.
Only after braving the stern gaze of these men does one reach the final destination: a stunning 3-dimensional floor-to-ceiling reproduction of the Buddha’s ascension.
While paintings of this scene are common in temples, nowhere else in Japan has this scene been so lavishly reproduced in sculpture. In the center lies a massive carved statue of the Buddha around which are gathered his grieving disciples and representatives from all the worlds of being. Even after 3 centuries, this panorama still inspires awe.
This post would be incomplete without mentioning the pagoda. The first lord envisioned a pagoda as part of the overall plan but it was never constructed. Three centuries later, with the support of many believers and visitors, the lord’s plan was finally realized.
Completed in 2011, the pagoda’s structure follows a traditional design. A single cedar column hangs from the roof of the pagoda without touching any other parts and acts as a stabilizing force. This earthquake-resistant dynamic was recently utilized in the design of Tokyo’s Sky Tree.
Temple Admission: Admission is required only for viewing the Hondo (main hall) and Sanbutsu-do. Adults 350 yen, junior/senior high school students 300 yen, children free
Access
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira line from Takamatsu Chikko station (near Takamatsu JR station) to Busshozan station (620 yen round-trip, 3 trains/hour; about 18 min. ride). Turn left (east) when you exit Busshozan station. Walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. Follow the road until it comes to a hill. Bear right and go around the hill until you come to a big pond. Turn right and follow the road along the pond to the temple entrance. (About 15 min. walk from the station.)
Posted by cathy at
23:15
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2012年11月02日
The Path to Paradise
If you make it to Busshozan (http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e601037.html), be sure to visit Honenji Temple.
In the “old days”, temples often provided visual “attractions” in the form of pictures and sculptures as a way of teaching illiterate followers. Honenji Temple, however, did this on a very grand scale.
Part of Honenji complex
Built in 1668, the temple complex was designed as a 3-dimensional representation of the “Pure Land” (paradise) and the path the soul travels to paradise when it leaves the physical world.The other day, some friends and I tried following this path. Unfortunately, we completely missed the first leg of the journey because it begins outside the temple grounds at a little shrine. Across from it, is the beginning of a white stone path and a wooden building. We saw the path and building, but were ignorant of their significance.
The path, we later learned, symbolizes the way of pure faith, which leads faithful souls safely through the hell of water and of fire. Inside the building, the king of Hades waits to judge the deceased. Hopefully, being now informed, you will be able to pay your respects properly! After passing through these ordeals (and a gate)
..the deceased at last reaches the entrance to paradise, the Nio Gate (on the left of the pagoda). On either side of the gate stand two large statues of Nio, guardians of the Buddha.
One statue's mouth is open
…and the other's is closed.
This signifies the beginning and the end (like the Alpha and Omega in Christianity). The path beyond is lined with stone lanterns to light the dark and seemingly endless road to paradise.
A flight of stairs leads to another massive gate, in which two Buddhas are enshrined.
This is followed by another steep flight of stairs, and I do mean steep,
that lead to Raigo-do,
a bell-tower guarded by beautiful Kannon, one on each side.
Here the Buddha welcomes the deceased by continuously ringing the bell. We, of course, rang it ourselves.
The bell-tower is followed by guess what? Yes! Another flight of stairs!
Although the temple often seems deserted, the well-worn treads testify to centuries of faithful worship.
Finally, the traveler reaches “paradise”: the top of the hill where the tombs of the lord’s family and other important people are located.
When I first discovered this temple many years ago, the gate to the tombs was in disrepair and anyone could go in. It has since been fixed and locked so now you must be content with a glimpse of what’s inside.
The lovely view from the top, however, is reward enough.
The journey certainly reminded us that getting into paradise requires effort!
Stay tuned for a peek inside the temple itself in my next post.
Access:
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira line from Takamatsu Chikko station (near Takamatsu JR station) to Busshozan station (620 yen round-trip, 3 trains/hour; about 18 min. ride). Turn left (east) when you exit Busshozan station. Walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. Follow the road until it comes to a hill. Bear right and go around the hill until you see a big pond. On the left you should see the 1st small shrine and on your right, the white stone path leading to the temple. (About 15 min. walk from the station.)
Many thanks to Yui for her explanation of all the symbolism.
In the “old days”, temples often provided visual “attractions” in the form of pictures and sculptures as a way of teaching illiterate followers. Honenji Temple, however, did this on a very grand scale.
Part of Honenji complex
Built in 1668, the temple complex was designed as a 3-dimensional representation of the “Pure Land” (paradise) and the path the soul travels to paradise when it leaves the physical world.The other day, some friends and I tried following this path. Unfortunately, we completely missed the first leg of the journey because it begins outside the temple grounds at a little shrine. Across from it, is the beginning of a white stone path and a wooden building. We saw the path and building, but were ignorant of their significance.
The path, we later learned, symbolizes the way of pure faith, which leads faithful souls safely through the hell of water and of fire. Inside the building, the king of Hades waits to judge the deceased. Hopefully, being now informed, you will be able to pay your respects properly! After passing through these ordeals (and a gate)
..the deceased at last reaches the entrance to paradise, the Nio Gate (on the left of the pagoda). On either side of the gate stand two large statues of Nio, guardians of the Buddha.
One statue's mouth is open
…and the other's is closed.
This signifies the beginning and the end (like the Alpha and Omega in Christianity). The path beyond is lined with stone lanterns to light the dark and seemingly endless road to paradise.
A flight of stairs leads to another massive gate, in which two Buddhas are enshrined.
This is followed by another steep flight of stairs, and I do mean steep,
that lead to Raigo-do,
a bell-tower guarded by beautiful Kannon, one on each side.
Here the Buddha welcomes the deceased by continuously ringing the bell. We, of course, rang it ourselves.
The bell-tower is followed by guess what? Yes! Another flight of stairs!
Although the temple often seems deserted, the well-worn treads testify to centuries of faithful worship.
Finally, the traveler reaches “paradise”: the top of the hill where the tombs of the lord’s family and other important people are located.
When I first discovered this temple many years ago, the gate to the tombs was in disrepair and anyone could go in. It has since been fixed and locked so now you must be content with a glimpse of what’s inside.
The lovely view from the top, however, is reward enough.
The journey certainly reminded us that getting into paradise requires effort!
Stay tuned for a peek inside the temple itself in my next post.
Access:
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira line from Takamatsu Chikko station (near Takamatsu JR station) to Busshozan station (620 yen round-trip, 3 trains/hour; about 18 min. ride). Turn left (east) when you exit Busshozan station. Walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. Follow the road until it comes to a hill. Bear right and go around the hill until you see a big pond. On the left you should see the 1st small shrine and on your right, the white stone path leading to the temple. (About 15 min. walk from the station.)
Many thanks to Yui for her explanation of all the symbolism.
Posted by cathy at
22:05
│Comments(2)
2012年11月01日
Exploring Busshozan
Busshozan in southwest Takamatsu offers an intriguing blend of old and new Japan. It originally developed as a temple town in the 17th century. Many shops and businesses arose to cater to the needs of the ruling lord and his retinue when they visited the temple, and the main street is still lined with buildings from the Edo period. Every October the lord's procession is reenacted in a highly popular autumn festival.
(see http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e480426.html )
Although at first glance Busshozan seems like a rustic backwater on the edge of the city, it is actually a vibrant hub of revival inspired by the love the local people have for their area. One of these people is Naotsugu Kurahashi, who transformed his family home 10 years ago into a very popular restaurant called Café Asile.
Naotsugu Kurahashi
At first glance, Café Asile looks like an old Japanese house.
Take a look around the side, however, and you’ll see a modern concrete gateway nicely framing the café and the adjoining gallery.
The café interior is a pleasant fusion of traditional Japanese and modern elements (for example, you can wear your shoes inside) and lunch is delicious (JPY 1,100 including a small desert and coffee). This, combined with the ambience, explains why the parking lot is usually full.
Café owner Kurahashi’s goal was to preserve his 85-year-old family home by transforming it into a space where people can enjoy tradition and history with a contemporary twist. I would say that he has succeeded. He is very involved in local efforts to preserve the best of Takamatsu’s local culture while exploring creative development.
Another interesting stop along this road is furniture store, Yamanoya. The owner, a skilled and enthusiastic cabinetmaker, recovers centuries-old furniture lying neglected in local attics and sheds and refurbishes them.
He uses his artisan skills to bring each piece back to life so that it can be used and treasured for a few centuries more. The furniture looks better than new and the prices are very reasonable despite the fact that they are antiques.
There are many more places to explore on this street alone, but I have run out of space. Let me end by recommending the much loved Patisserie Higuchi, famous for their cream puffs. I tried the chocolate éclairs and they were fabulous!
All of these spots, by the way, are close to the Busshozan Hot Spring Bath, which is also on my recommended list (see http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/d2012-03.html ).
Access Info, etc.:
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira liine from Takamatsu Chikko Station right beside Tamamo Park at Takamatsu port (620 yen round trip, 3 trains per hour ). It takes about 18 minutes by train and then 11 minutes on foot after that. Turn left (east) when you come out of Busshozan station, walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. This street has Cafe Asile, Yamanoya and Patissierre Higuchi. All are past Enkoji Temple, which is on the right (west) side of the street.
Café Asile, 2507 Busshozan-ko, Takamatsu, TEL: 087-889-1531, Hours: 8:30-18:00, Holidays: Mondays, 17 parking spaces. Reservation recommended.
Many thanks to Kumiko and Hiroko for their help and loan of photos, and to the owners of Cafe Asile and Yamanoya.
(see http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e480426.html )
Although at first glance Busshozan seems like a rustic backwater on the edge of the city, it is actually a vibrant hub of revival inspired by the love the local people have for their area. One of these people is Naotsugu Kurahashi, who transformed his family home 10 years ago into a very popular restaurant called Café Asile.
Naotsugu Kurahashi
At first glance, Café Asile looks like an old Japanese house.
Take a look around the side, however, and you’ll see a modern concrete gateway nicely framing the café and the adjoining gallery.
The café interior is a pleasant fusion of traditional Japanese and modern elements (for example, you can wear your shoes inside) and lunch is delicious (JPY 1,100 including a small desert and coffee). This, combined with the ambience, explains why the parking lot is usually full.
Café owner Kurahashi’s goal was to preserve his 85-year-old family home by transforming it into a space where people can enjoy tradition and history with a contemporary twist. I would say that he has succeeded. He is very involved in local efforts to preserve the best of Takamatsu’s local culture while exploring creative development.
Another interesting stop along this road is furniture store, Yamanoya. The owner, a skilled and enthusiastic cabinetmaker, recovers centuries-old furniture lying neglected in local attics and sheds and refurbishes them.
He uses his artisan skills to bring each piece back to life so that it can be used and treasured for a few centuries more. The furniture looks better than new and the prices are very reasonable despite the fact that they are antiques.
There are many more places to explore on this street alone, but I have run out of space. Let me end by recommending the much loved Patisserie Higuchi, famous for their cream puffs. I tried the chocolate éclairs and they were fabulous!
All of these spots, by the way, are close to the Busshozan Hot Spring Bath, which is also on my recommended list (see http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/d2012-03.html ).
Access Info, etc.:
Kotoden train: Take the Kotohira liine from Takamatsu Chikko Station right beside Tamamo Park at Takamatsu port (620 yen round trip, 3 trains per hour ). It takes about 18 minutes by train and then 11 minutes on foot after that. Turn left (east) when you come out of Busshozan station, walk past a few streets and turn right (south) at the 4-way intersection. This street has Cafe Asile, Yamanoya and Patissierre Higuchi. All are past Enkoji Temple, which is on the right (west) side of the street.
Café Asile, 2507 Busshozan-ko, Takamatsu, TEL: 087-889-1531, Hours: 8:30-18:00, Holidays: Mondays, 17 parking spaces. Reservation recommended.
Many thanks to Kumiko and Hiroko for their help and loan of photos, and to the owners of Cafe Asile and Yamanoya.
Posted by cathy at
12:32
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